Orkney Guide Book:
Birdwatching in Orkney

Contents: Bed & Breakfast - Hotels - Self-Catering
References: Where to Stay on the Way - Getting to Orkney


Orkney is one of Britain’s prime places for birdwatching.  The combination of fertile agricultural land, moorland, wetland, coastline and surrounding sea provide an almost uniquely varied environment which is very attractive to birds - residents, migrants and visitors both in summer and winter.  No matter what the season there are always birds to be seen.

Kirkwall Harbour/ Peedie Sea, p68

Spring/Summer. Present at this time of year are the resident gulls in the harbour and Lesser Black-backed Gulls. Mute Swans are on the Peedie Sea and a few Long-tailed Ducks and Goldeneye until May.
Autumn/Winter.  This is the best time to “check out” the harbour area & Peedie Sea. The Lesser Black-backed Gulls have gone for the winter and are replaced by Herring, Common, Great Black-backed and Black-headed Gulls, while sometimes Iceland or Glaucous Gulls are present. On the Peedie Sea, Goldeneye and Long-tailed Ducks are present for most of the winter and can be approached quite closely. A car can be used as a hide at the small boat-house - access off Pickaquoy Road.

Scapa Beach, p86

Spring/Summer.  Waders are the main species and at this time of year Bar-tailed Godwit, Dunlin and Turnstone are the most common.  Eider ducks and their young may be closely observed from the road.
Autumn/Winter. Returning birds from the far north start to appear with Dunlin and Turnstone returning in good numbers. Knot start to be seen in late August/early September. Sandwich Terns can also be seen flying around the Bay.  The low cliffs to the west side of the bay offer good views of wintering wildfowl.
Wideford Burn, p86

Spring/Summer.  If conditions are  right this small valley can be good for migrant birds. This site is best visited when the wind is in the east, south-east being the best. From late April to the end of May there is always a chance of finding rare migrants. In April if there is a “fall” this tends to be Robins but into May there may be Willow Warblers, Goldcrests, Wheatears or Pied Flycatchers. Spring falls are always less impressive than those in autumn due to the lack of juvenile birds, but the birds that are seen are in their “best dress”.
Autumn/Winter.  If conditions are correct, this is again a migration hot spot. The species tend to be the same as Spring falls but there may also be Chiffchaff, Lesser Whitethroats, Garden Warblers, Redwings and Fieldfares. The chance of an unusual species occurring is also greater due to inexperienced young birds making their first  migration.  An American Nighthawk was once found at this site.
 

Orphir, p88

The Hobbister RSPB Reserve offers pleasant walks through the Highland Park Distillery’s peat cuttings.  Species which may be seen include Red-throated Diver, Merlin and Peregrine, while in winter the low cliffs offer an excellent vantage point to watch the large numbers of wildfowl which winter in Scapa Flow.

Harray Loch/Stenness Loch, p92 and p102

Spring/Summer. Various duck species breed on the loch margins, Mute Swan nest on both lochs, mostly on Harray, and here are a small number of Arctic and Common Terns on the holms of both lochs.
Autumn/Winter.  Both lochs have SSSI status, with internationally important numbers of wildfowl in the winter. Harray has the higher counts, with Wigeon, Mallard, Pochard, Tufted Duck, Scaup and Goldeneye present. It is always worth a careful scan of Wigeon & Pochard flocks as American Wigeon or Red-crested Pochard are sometimes present. There is also a large flock of Coot on Harray. The best places to watch from are the car park at Brodgar, near the Watchstone and from the road just past the Merkister Hotel.
 

Cottascarth, p108

The Dale of Cottascarth is another RSPB Reserve with a hide, perhaps best known for being one of the places that the late Eddie Balfour studied Hen Harriers. Sadly they are now much rarer then they were then, although it is still a splendid place to see the Harriers perform their “skydancing” display flights on a warm Spring day.
Spring/Summer.  The dale starts to come to life in late March with the song of Curlew and Snipe. The Harriers usually start to display in April. Merlin, Kestrel, Hen Harrier & Short-eared Owl can all be seen in the Dale. There is usually a pair of Ravens in the large tree. Skylark, Meadow Pipit & Wheatear are all summer residents.
Autumn/Winter. After the breeding season the area takes on a deserted appearance with the dispersal of many of the breeding species. There is sometimes a small winter roost of Hen Harriers here.

Brough of Birsay, p115

Spring/Summer.  One of the few places where Puffins may perhaps be observed in the West Mainland.  Gannets may be seen fishing offshore from here.
Autumn/Winter. The best place for seawatching on the Mainland when the wind is in the west, north-west being the best direction. Fulmars can pass in the thousands per hour. Manx and Sooty Shearwaters pass regularly. All four species of skuas are seen most autumns and also large numbers of auks, Kittiwakes and Gannets.  Storm and Leach’s Petrels are also recorded. The few hours after first light tends to be the best time for a sea-watch, but  late afternoon/early evening can also produce the birds.

Birsay Beach, p116

Spring/Summer. Dunlin, Grey Plover, Knot, Turnstone are passage species, while Redshank, Oystercatcher, Curlew and Ringed Plover are present all year.  Shelduck and Eiders breed in Birsay Bay.
Autumn/Winter: Passage Waders - the first start to appear by the end of July/beginning of August with Greenshank & Whimbrel tending to be the first and as the autumn progresses Knot, Little Stint, Sanderling Turnstone, Ruff and Purple Sandpiper all pass through or stay on for the winter.

The Loons, Birsay, p119

Spring/Summer.  The Loons is a place of great activity during this period with all species getting on with breeding. This is perhaps the best place in Orkney to see the rare and elusive Pintail. Most of the duck species that breed in Orkney can be seen at this location; these include Wigeon, Teal, Mallard, Pintail and Tufted Duck. Waders, including Oystercatcher, Lapwing, Snipe, Curlew & Redshank are also present.  Common Gull & Black-headed Gull also breed in good numbers. Kittiwakes from Marwick Head frequent the area to gather nesting materials and for bathing, and there is a small colony of Arctic Terns.  Sedge Warblers and Reed Buntings also breed here.
Autumn/Winter: After all the activity of the summer the Loons is a much quieter place but not less interesting at this time of year. Most  duck species can still be observed, and as Autumn gives way to Winter there are flocks of Whooper Swans, Greylag Geese and up to 150 Greenland White-fronted Geese.

Marwick Head, Birsay, p119

Spring/Summer.  Marwick Head really comes alive in the late Spring and early Summer, and it is only at this time of year that there are any number of birds here, as the cliff is a “Seabird City” with thousands of breeding birds crammed onto the sandstone ledges.  The combination of noise, smell and sight is unforgettable. Fulmars nest nearer the top of the cliff, Kittiwakes and Guillemots on the ledges with Razorbills and some Guillemots on the scree slopes. Care should be taken near the edge, or you may get a wonderful view before you suddenly stop at the bottom unable to look up!

Birsay Moors and Burgar Hill, Evie, p114 and p110

Durkadale is part of the RSPB Birsay Moors Reserve and is a good spot to see the moorland species for which this Reserve is best known. All the raptors as well as Short-eared Owl can be seen here and the layby at Howally makes an excellent vantage point (HY307245).
Spring/Summer.  Red-throated Diver, Golden Plover, Dunlin, Whimbrel, Hen Harrier, Merlin, Kestrel, Short-eared Owl, Bonxie, Arctic Skua, Wheatear, Skylark and Meadow Pipit all make this their summer home. There is an excellent hide at Lowrie’s Water (HY346257) to watch breeding Red-throated Divers at close quarters without disturbing them.
Autumn/Winter.  As soon as the breeding season is over this a very quiet place indeed, although there is always a chance of seeing Hen Harrier or Merlin.  Durkadale has a communal winter roost of Hen Harrier which can be observed at a safe distance by again using the layby at Howally.
 

St Peter’s Pool, Deerness, p138

This is a shallow, muddy bay and often has good numbers of birds. It is best watched on an incoming tide - a vehicle makes a useful hide and there are  several places where a car can be parked safely.
Spring/Summer.  In late spring waders such as Bar-tailed Godwit, Knot and Dunlin heading for their breeding grounds in the North use St. Peter’s Pool as a staging post. In the early spring large flocks of Oystercatcher can be observed here.
Autumn/Winter.   Returning from their summer breeding grounds are large flocks of Bar-tailed Godwit, Knot, Sanderling, Ringed Plover, Dunlin and Curlew.

Eves Loch, Deerness, (HY549062), p136

In recent years this location has produced some of the rarest waders that have been seen in Orkney. It is a semi-tidal pool and is at its best in the late Spring/early Summer and throughout the Autumn migration period.  The ruined broch provides ideal cover from which the pools may be observed without disturbing the birds.
Spring/Summer.  Dunlin, Redshank, Ringed Plover, Curlew and Ruff are recorded here most years.
Autumn/Winter.  Just about any wader could turn up when on migration and common species include Little Stint, Dunlin, Ruff, Redshank and Oystercatcher, but rarities have been Semi-palmated and Western Sandpipers.

Point of Ayre, Deerness, p138

This is the best place for sea-watching in the East Mainland  if the wind is in the south-east or east.
Spring/Summer is quiet but it is always worth a seawatch just in case.
Autumn/Winter is when the Point is at its best - all four species of Skua have been recorded in the past few years. Pomarine Skuas have been seen in good numbers, while Little Auks occur regularly during the winter.

Mull Head, Deerness, p137

This area is a Local Nature Reserve.
Spring/Summer.  There is a small colony of Greater Black-backed Gull and a few pairs of Bonxie. Red-throated Diver may be seen here.  There is perhaps a chance of seeing a Peregrine hunting along the cliff tops.
Autumn/Winter.  As with the all of the east-facing coast of Deerness there is always a chance of migrants in the autumn if the weather conditions have been right.

Newark Bay, Deerness, p138

Another good spot for waders - an incoming tide tends to be the best time to watch.  This bay is a very good spot to see the variety of waders that spend the winter in Orkney.
Spring/Summer.  On spring passage there is a good chance of seeing Purple Sandpiper and Turnstone in their breeding plumage before they head off to the Arctic for the Summer.
Autumn/Winter.  The birds that appear here in the autumn are those returning from the breeding grounds in the North.  Grey Plover are recorded most years in small numbers. Purple Sandpipers spend the winter here along with Dunlin, Turnstone and Ringed Plover.

Shoreline between Point of Ayre & Sandside, Deerness, p138

This is prime migrant territory in the late Spring and Autumn, with many migrants flitting around the cliffs and geos after crossing the North Sea.
Spring/Summer.  Fulmar nest along the top of the cliffs, but this area’s main interest is in the number of migrants that can turn up in the late Spring.
Autumn/Winter.  In the autumn there are Purple Sandpiper, Turnstone, Dunlin and Curlew along the shore.  It is the chance of finding migrants that makes it worth getting out early and walking this shoreline. Goldcrests, Robins, Willow Warblers, Chiffchaffs, Garden Warblers, Wheatears, Whinchats, Redwings and Fieldfares are the more common species seen here in an autumn fall.

Copinsay, Deerness, p139

This is an RSPB reserve. Access can at times be difficult, but a visit to this attractive island is well worthwhile.
Spring/Summer.  In the late spring/early summer the cliffs are teaming with breeding seabirds. There are large numbers of Fulmar, Kittiwake, Guillemot, Razorbill and Shag.  Corncrake were present in the meadows until recently but habitat rearrangement is under way to tempt them to return. Meadow Pipits nest in the tussocky grass, while Wheatear and Rock Pipit can be seen nesting amongst the stones on the shore. There are large numbers of breeding Great Black-backed Gull on the holms and a few Puffin are also present. Britain’s rarest breeding auk, the Tystie, nests in small numbers under the boulders on the holms.
Autumn/Winter.  After all the activities of the breeding season Copinsay still has much to offer although access is more difficult, and it is now for migrant hunting that the visitor will be trying to get there. Prime migrant weather is south-east or east winds. to which Copinsay is very exposed.

Churchill Barriers and Echnaloch, Burray, p141

The Barriers and particularly Echnaloch Bay is a good area for divers, grebes & ducks.  Echnaloch itself is avery good place to observe waterfowl from the comfort of the car all year round.
Spring/Summer.  At No. 4 Barrier there is a large gathering of Long-tailed Ducks on the east side. In Echnaloch Bay there is sometimes a flock of Black-throated Divers, Great Northern Divers will also be present along with Slovenian Grebes, and a careful look may also produce a Red-necked Grebe. As Spring moves to Summer, Black-throated Divers are replaced by the summer breeding population of Red-throated Divers, while occasionally a Great Northern Diver may summer in this area.
Autumn/Winter.  Failed or non-breeding Great Northern & Black-throated Divers start to return at the end of July/beginning of August and as the year wears on more arrive.  Velvet Scoters can be seen in most years from late September.  Long-tailed Ducks arrive back later and are present all winter.
 

Hoy, p160

The RSPB has a large Reserve in the north of the island, covering all the hill ground North of the Rackwick Road and some ground to the south.
Spring/Summer.  One of the first signs that spring has come is the arrival of the Bonxies.  Red-throated Diver nest on the small lochans but should only be observed from a distance to avoid disturbance.  The main colony of Bonxies is at Grut Fea - if nests are approached you will certainly be dive bombed. Fulmar nest all along the cliffs.  There are a few pairs of Razorbill and Guillemot in various locations, while Puffin may be reliably observed in the area around the Old Man and at St John’s Head.  Dunlin nest in the wetter places on the tops and here are a few pairs of Golden Plover on the dry stony summits, while Raven nest on the sea cliffs and inland crags.  Peregrine can sometimes be seen hunting along the tops and a few pairs of Merlin are present.  Stonechat are plentiful in the Rackwick valley and one of the largest Common Gull colonies in Orkney is near the Whaness Burn.  Arctic Skuas nest on the Moss of the Whitestanes in small numbers. The small plantation is home to some woodland species, while Willow Warblers and Reed Buntings nest in some of the small willow bushes in the valley bottoms.

Rousay, p172

The centre of Rousay is like the moorland of the West Mainland, with similar species, including Hen Harrier, Kestrel and Merlin.  The RSPB have a Reserve which was part of the Trumland  Estate with a circular walk round it and a fine view from the top of the hill.
Spring/Summer.  The sound that echoes in the hills of Rousay in Spring is that of the Curlew. In late Spring there is a large gathering of Long-tailed Duck in the Wyre Sound. Trumland Wood is one of the few large wooded areas in Orkney and it attracts a good selection of woodland species. Those that can be heard or seen include Robin, Wren, Dunnock, Willow Warbler, Song Thrush, Blackbird and Chaffinch. Fulmar abound all along the cliffs on the North & West Coast.
There are normally several colonies of Arctic Tern at various locations.  Up to 100 pairs of Arctic Skua nest on the edges of the tern colonies on the maritime heath along the West coast.
Autumn/Winter.  Long-tailed Duck gather in the sounds around Rousay with the largest numbers in Wyre Sound. Great Northern Diver are also to be found in the various sounds - the best way to see them is from  the inter-island ferry.

Egilsay, p 179

The RSPB Reserve of Onziebust is being managed specifically to benefit Corncrakes.  Although you are unlikely to see this elusive species because of its secretive habits, Egilsay is well worth a visit in Spring/Summer to see its wealth of wetland and farmland breeding species such as Redshank and Skylark and to see its rich flora, both signs of the relatively unintensive nature of farming on the island.

Noup Head, Westray, p187

The cliffs from the lighthouse south are an RSPB Reserve. The smell and noise that greet the visitor from this vast seabird colony, one of the largest in UK, never fails to impress.
Spring/Summer.  Mid-May through to the end of June is the time to come to have the Noup experience. The cliffs hold large numbers of Fulmar, Razorbill Kittiwake and Shag, while the Guillemot numbers are of international importance. There are also a few Puffin.
Autumn/Winter. Most of the nesting seabirds have left their ledges by late July and all that are left are Fulmar with their chicks. Noup Head makes an excellent spot for sea-watching.

Castle O’Burrian, Westray, p188

This is the only really reliable place in Orkney to see Puffins in any number – see “Walks”.

Papa Westray North Hill and Holm of Papay, p194

The North Hill of Papay is a RSPB Reserve famous for its large colony of Arctic Tern.
Spring/Summer.  From mid-May the Terns arrive from their wintering grounds in the South Atlantic. There are also Arctic Skua and a few Bonxies nesting on the edges of the colony.  Fowl Craig has small numbers of Kittiwake, Guillemot, Razorbill and Shag and while not as impressive as the higher cliffs it is possible to get a great deal nearer to the birds.  The Holm of Papay has a large colony of Tysties and a colony of Storm Petrel, which come into their nesting holes in the dark. An overnight stay on the Holm to see the Stormies flying around in the grimlings, or summer dimm is well worth the effort.
Autumn/Winter.  The Mull Head is perhaps the best spot in Orkney for sea-watching, Sooty and Manx Shearwater are recorded in good numbers each year. All four species of Skua are recorded in most years along with good numbers of Gannet, Auk and sea duck.

North Ronaldsay, p196

North Ronaldsay has Orkney’s only bird observatory and is heavily involved with the national ringing studies carried out by the British Trust for Ornithology. The local breeding populations, the species that pass through on migration and those that winter on the island are all monitored.  The lighthouse at Dennis Head often attracts night-time migrants  into its beams, which can be quite spectacular, with many hundreds of birds flying around the tower.
Spring/Summer.  The main event is the Spring passage with the return of Lesser Black-backed Gull, Sandwich Tern and Bonxies, followed by Wheatear and other passerines.  On the lochs are populations of Teal, Gadwall, Mallard and Pochard.  Eider nest along the shore. There are several small gull and Arctic Tern colonies and Tysties nest under the boulders along the shore, while Fulmar nest at the bottom of the sheep dyke. Rock Pipit are to be seen along the shore, while Meadow Pipit, Sparrow and Twite mingle around the small crofts. The rasping call of the Corncrake can sometimes still be heard in the meadows.  The peak of the Spring migration is towards the end of April/mid-May when Willow Warbler Chiffchaff, Pied Flycatcher, Robin, Redstart, Wheatear, Whitethroat and Red backed Shrike may all be seen.
Autumn/Winter.  Late September and early October is the peak of the migration period, the latter part sometimes producing  large falls of thrushes.  During this period almost any species may be recorded if the prevailing conditions are right.  Robin, Bluethroat, Whinchat, Wheatear, Barred Warbler, Garden, Willow, and Yellow-browed Warbler and Chiffchaff, are just a few of the species that are recorded in most years.  Sea-watching from the old beacon at Dennis Head can be quite spectacular with very large numbers of Fulmar, Guillemots, Kittiwakes and Gannets passing. Shearwaters are regularly seen in good numbers and all four species of Skua are recorded in most years.  Outlandish rarities such as Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler, Yellow-browed Bunting and Little Bustard have all been recorded in recent years.

Sanday, p200
 
Sanday is the wader Mecca of Orkney, with its many flat, sandy and muddy beaches, and important numbers of Bar-tailed Godwit and Grey Plover.  Dunlin along with lesser numbers of Knot and and Ringed Plover are also present.  Cata Sand is perhaps the best spot for watching waders in Sanday.
Spring/Summer.  Turnstone, Redshank, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Bar-tailed Godwit and Knot can all be seen here. The latter two will be changing into their breeding plumage and the Knot will be a lovely deep russet red.  Fulmar nest on the sand dunes and Meadow Pipit nest in the surrounding grass, while Wheatear use old rabbit holes to nest.
Autumn/Winter.  After the breeding season the waders return in large numbers. Knot & Bar-tailed Godwit are first to return. Along with all the species mentioned above, Little Stint and Curlew Sandpiper may also be seen at this time of year.

East end of Sanday, p204

This can be a migrant hot spot if the conditions are correct. Small patches of vegetation and field dykes can be hiding many different species.
Spring/Summer.  This migration involves lower numbers than in the Autumn but the birds are in their breeding plumage.  Robin, Wheatear, Red-backed Shrike, Willow Warbler, Chiffchaff and Redstarts tend to be the most common with perhaps a Bluethroat.
Autumn/Winter.  Literally anything can and frequently does turn up. Numbers are greater due to the young from the breeding season being involved.  The species involved are similar to a Spring fall, but may also include Whitethroat, Lesser Whitethroat, Black Redstart, Garden Warbler, Blackcap, Goldcrest, Blackbird, Song Thrush, Redwing, Fieldfare, Ring Ouzel, Yellow-browed Warbler Red-backed Shrike, Barred Warbler and perhaps a rarity or two. Sea-watching from Start Point can also produce good results if there is a south-east, or east wind. Sooty and Manx Shearwaters are recorded most years along with good numbers of Kittiwake, Fulmar and Gannet, while Skua pass daily and Pomarine Skua are seen most years.  As Start is a private island permission should be sought, but there is a right of way along the track to the Lighthouse.

Eday, p206

Spring/Summer. The Mill Loch has a number of breeding Red-throated Divers in the summer. The hide gives excellent views of this beautiful bird at close quarters.  Whimbrel may also be seen on Eday.
There is a major Cormorant colony on the Calf of Eday, as well as a large colony of Great Black-backed Gulls.

Stronsay, p212

Stronsay is an excellent island for birdwatching.  The bays and wet areas are good for waders and waterfowl.  It is a good island to visit at migration time.  The gardens of Whitehall are well worth a look.  Migrants can turn up anywhere but the east coast tends to be best. There is a privately run Bird Reserve at “The Castle”, which turns up several national rarities each year along with a good selection of scarce migrants.
Spring/Summer.  The bays are worth a look for migrant and resident waders, Wheatear will be nesting along the shores, Meadow Pipit in the fields, while Redshank and Lapwings nest in the wetter spots of fields, while Oystercatcher prefer the drier fields and shore.  Fulmar are plentiful along the cliffs.  There is a large Great Black-backed Gull colony on Rothesholm Head as well as Bonxies and Arctic Skua.   Auks and Kittiwake nest in small numbers on the Rothesholm cliffs.  Mallard and Teal nest around the Meikle Water.
Autumn/Winter.  Migrants are the main attraction.  The usual Autumn migrants are Song Thrush, Redwing, Fieldfare, Ring Ouzel, Whitethroat, Lesser Whitethroat, Black Redstart, Garden Warbler, Blackcap, Goldcrest, Ring Ouzel, Yellow-browed Warbler, Red-backed Shrike and Barred Warbler. In the past few years several rare pipits and buntings have turned up. The best sea-watching place is  Lamb Head but Sanday is really better for this.

Mill Dam, Shapinsay, p220

The Mill Dam on Shapinsay is an RSPB Reserve. There are excellent views of the wide variety of species present at all times of year from the hide.   It is most noted for the number of duck that it holds throughout the year.
Spring/Summer.  The nesting species of grebe & duck include Little Grebe, Gadwall, Teal, Mallard, Pintail and Shoveler, while Garganey are recorded in most years.
Autumn/Winter.  After the breeding season, the reserve is used as a wintering location by a huge number of waterfowl. The main species are Wigeon, Teal, Mallard and Shoveler while Greylag Geese and Whooper Swans are also present.


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